Week 5: Palermo Chico discoveries
- nomadoggo5
- Dec 31, 2023
- 7 min read
Updated: Jan 1, 2024
Settling into Palermo Chico for an entire month, I'm eager to unravel the distinctive charms of this neighborhood and compare its essence to those I've explored before. The first impressions are promising — more trees, expansive sky views, and a plethora of parks. It seems like my furry companion and I are in for a delightful stay in this green and vibrant corner of Buenos Aires!
As with all my weekly discoveries, I share insights that naturally unfold during my immersive experience living here. I don't actively seek out specific situations or questions, but if there's anything particular you'd like to know about the neighborhood I'm in or Argentina in general, feel free to leave a comment or send me a message. I'll do my best to address it in the upcoming weekly updates or whenever I uncover the information.
Palermo Chico area
The Palermo Chico area is situated to the north, closer to the river (Rio Plata), and west of Recoleta. It stands out as one of the more upscale neighborhoods, drawing tourists from various places. With its broad sidewalks, minimal graffiti, and well-maintained trash bins, the area exudes a sense of refinement. While encounters with individuals "seeking assistance" are inevitable in any big city, the frequency is relatively lower compared to the bustling downtown city streets of Monserrat.
The north end of CABA boasts expansive parks near the Jorge Newbery (AEP) airport and the Plata River, offering endless paths for biking, walking, and running. Each park has its unique character—some are more wooded and untamed, while others exhibit a manicured, city-park-like ambiance. Towering trees provide ample shade, creating an inviting space for dogs to roam off-leash...provided they behave. Various groups organize activities like running, cycling, workouts, and yoga, utilizing the parks' built-in gym equipment (or trainers drive in a car, and set-up circuits with free weights). At Paseo El Rosedal, a small lake allows for goose feeding, picnics, and paddle boat rentals. Plaza Holanda features a grand monument, criss-crossing paths, and other parks include large playgrounds for children. Keep an eye out for smaller fenced parks, like Plaza Alemania, which may be occasionally closed without posted hours—though, intriguingly, the "no dogs allowed" signs don't always deter furry visitors.
Palermo Chico tends to be pricier compared to Villa Crespo, but there are still opportunities to discover budget-friendly options. The area features an array of Happy Hour deals, though be mindful that meal prices can occasionally align with or come close to US standards. It's worth noting that inflation, currently at 1% per day, influences costs. In Monserrat, the more touristy spots proved notably more expensive than the local resto-bars I frequented (away from the main roads). While Palermo Chico overall leans toward higher prices, exploring a bit can reveal hidden gems offering more wallet-friendly dining experiences.
The fitness scene in Palermo Chico appears diverse, with many locals engaging in various workout activities. Gyms here cater to different preferences, ranging from traditional setups with free weights, to functional training spaces focused on classes (Open Gym). Pilates is quite popular, and outdoor workout groups often gather in the parks (until the mosquitos got here; see my next blog post!). Prices for gym memberships vary, spanning from $15 to $40 USD per month, with discounts for cash payments and some offering upfront payment benefits if you pay for 3 months in advance. Interestingly, there's no requirement for contracts or waivers at the gyms I've visited. It's worth noting that only one gym in this neighborhood has air conditioning, a rarity among fitness establishments in Buenos Aires (so far), which generally rely on open windows or fans. Additionally, none of the gyms I've encountered are open on Sundays. And one gym WellClub tried to get me to pay for a medical consult before joining (and possibly a waiver/contract).
A delightful discovery in Palermo Chico was the Carrefour Hipermercado, a colossal store like Target in the US, attached to the very fancy Alcorta Mall. It offers everything from groceries and furniture, to cleaning supplies and clothing. Roaming through its aisles felt akin to navigating a Walmart/Target, providing a one-stop-shop experience. It's definitely a go-to spot for various needs – it's definitely more than a Supermarket, so it makes sense it's called a Hypermarket!
Dog-related
One of the most noticeable differences in Palermo Chico compared to Monserrat is the significantly-reduced dog poop dodging on sidewalks. People diligently clean up after their dogs; while there's still some, the contrast in quantity is unmistakable...like 95% better than Monserrat/downtown, and 75% better than Villa Crespo!
Unrelated to Argentina specifically—unless you count my experiences in the country as the catalyst for research and subsequent lifestyle changes—I transitioned my dog to a raw food diet this week! Given the uncertainties (dubious quality and fillers in the dry alimentos bags) with dog food here, and the affordability of beef relative to cities in the USA, I explored alternatives. And, recent data touts the benefits of raw diets for dogs. With meat being more affordable here, in the area of $2 USD per kilogram of Espinazo/spine 'meat-on-bone' cuts, decided to give it a shot! After a week, my pup seems to be thriving, and hasn't turned down my "cooking" yet!
Researching public transport, I found conflicting information on whether dogs are allowed on trains, planes, and buses in Argentina. Despite occasional mentions of exceptions, official sources claim dogs can only ride in taxis, Ubers, or hired vans/Remis (with driver/company permission beforehand). To clarify, I visited the big bus and train stations in Retiro - by law, dogs are prohibited unless they are certified Guide Dogs with proper paperwork. However, occasional leniency may apply for small dogs (as is the trend in Buenos Aires, unfortunately for dogs over 5kg/12#. This is because most of the transport around Argentina is controlled by the federal government, and not much competition is allowed (in 2023). Traveling outside the city with your furry friend remains a challenge, given the limited options and high costs. Hoping for positive changes in the new year with recent deregulations by the new president!
Culture
Merry Christmas/Happy Winter Solstice/Feliz Año Nuevo to everyone!
Anticipating closures on Christmas, I strategically planned to dine out and complete my shopping on Christmas Eve, intending to cook a cozy meal at home on Christmas Day. However, my plan hit a snag – everything was closed on Christmas Eve, not on Christmas Day (backwards from the USA)! While not every establishment opened on Christmas, most operated as usual on 25Dec. A shout-out to a 24-hour kiosk on Av. Santa Fe with the hotdog (pancho) stand that saved me from going hungry on Christmas Eve, treating me to delightful crunchy shoestring french fries atop my Pancho Completo (hot dog with fixins)!
Next up is New Year's Eve, and - la gente dice que (word is) - everything will be open tonight, but brace yourselves for closures on New Year's Day (tomorrow 01Jan). Stay tuned!
Food & Beverages
Spicy food is a rarity here; Argentines are almost allergic to seasoning it seems. I encountered a somewhat spicy ramen at Chinofino during my walks in Palermo SoHo, and one piece of jalapeno in my Ceviche in Palermo Chico had a kick (but the fish was tough) ... but beyond that, nada. Hot sauces are available in stores, and some kiosks offer a "spicy" sauce as an addition to your hot dog. I asked what kind of spicy sauce it was and the kiosk cashier said "I don't know". It tasted kind of like a slightly spicy ketchup, and it was squirted out of a tube :P
On the subject of hot dogs, since mentioned above for Christmas Eve: for some reason, come adorned with small/shoestring crunchy french fries! Not something I anticipated, but I wasn't mad about it. The moment the gentleman started adding them to my hot dog, confusion set in...but I would eat it again! These hotdogs are pretty bland; white bread/dollar-store buns that are pretty long, with skinny & long mediocre hot dog meat, and whatever sauce tubes you want on top (prepared for you by the kiosk employee). What a weird food to be popular! :)
The search for a life-changing parilla (Argentine grill) continues. Despite trying one right next to my Airbnb, boasting a fancy ambiance and serving Vacío (Flank Steak, which looked mouth-watering on YouTube), the actual experience was disappointing—a dry and challenging chew, with little flavor. However, they did have grilled veggies, a rare find! This culinary quest has been perplexing; prior to arriving in Argentina, the hype about the extraordinary steak scene had set high expectations. Yet, with four parillas under my belt, I find myself encountering dry, unseasoned, and hard-to-chew steaks. My dad's BBQing on a propane grill in the backyard, with $15/pound steaks from a USA grocery store, are triple the flavor and texture of any of these four steaks here in Buenos Aires :/ There must be a hidden gem I have yet to discover....the search continues!
Some meals from Palermo Chico so far!
Buffalo Chicken Pizza - it was not, lol, it was more BBQ-sauce-tasting, with a yogurt type sauce (supposed to be ranch?). Weird AF. Pizza in BsAs sucks overall. Found at Hell's Pizza in Palermo Chico. Expensive at around 1800-2800 Pesos per slice, or $2/$3 USD per. Not going back.
Amazing sushi!! Fruit sushi??? Initially I thought "no" but after I tasted I thought "yes!" - had to get it para llevar (to-go) because the mosquitos were crazy as usual. One roll was fried chicken with curry/honey mustard sauce; really good. 2 other rolls were great and refreshing. Total cost of about $20 USD for a 24-piece sampler of sushi, which is way too much for Argentina (Tampa FL has $14 USD all-you-can-eat with good quality), and you can only pay with debit card, not credit. 4/5 stars, but staff were great!
Giant burger with mozzarella sticks inside, 4/5 stars, from 7167 Burger.
Weather
One of the prominent pieces of advice I received before arriving in Argentina emphasized the intense heat and humidity during the summer. Coming from Phoenix AZ, I'm no stranger to high temperatures, but my encounters with humidity were limited to travels in the Midwest and Florida. The months of January, February, and the beginning of March are considered the peak of summer here. Monitoring the weather forecasts for these months, the highs consistently hovered in the 80s°F (30s°C), with occasional spikes to 91°F. The humidity, averaging around 59%, seemed comparable to my experiences in Oregon at the time. While not claiming expertise in humidity, these numbers led me to believe the heat might not be as oppressive as projected. We'll see if the warnings have been from dramatic people, or if my pup is going to be using the air conditioning a ton!
In December, I've encountered a few high 80s°F (30s°C) days, notably warm, especially in direct sunlight, but far from unbearable. The cityscape's tall buildings and tree-lined sidewalks provide ample shade, making outdoor strolls much more comfortable. And there is usually some sort of breeze. Comparatively, my experience in Florida with humidity surpasses that of Buenos Aires...by a landslide! Before arriving in Argentina, I was in Miami, where the air felt drinkable—something I haven't encountered here. However, it's only December, so I'll continue to share weather updates as the hotter months progress.
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